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Shanahan, Madeline, “‘Whipt with a twig rod’: Irish manuscript recipe books as sources for the study of culinary material culture, c. 1660 to 1830”, Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy 115 C (2015): 197–218.

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Article
“‘Whipt with a twig rod’: Irish manuscript recipe books as sources for the study of culinary material culture, c. 1660 to 1830”
Periodical
Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy 115 C (2015)
FitzPatrick, Elizabeth, and James Kelly (eds), Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy 115 C — Food and drink in Ireland (2015), Royal Irish Academy.  
abstract:

Though subjects of enduring interest in their own right, food and drink are still more revealing archaeologically and historically when they amplify and illuminate broader societal behaviours and trends. This multi-disciplinary collection of fourteen essays explores the collection, cultivation, consumption and culture of food and drink in Ireland from the beginnings of settlement in the Mesolithic to the present. Among its themes, it engages with what the first settlers gathered; how people ate in Neolithic times; cooking in the Bronze Age; the diet of rich and poor in the medieval era; the impact of conquest on culinary patterns; the differences in the diet of different classes in pre-Famine and the impact of the Famine; the history of haute cuisine in Ireland; the impact of modernisation in the twentieth century, and the changing role of drink in society.

Volume
115 C
Pages
197–218
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Description
Abstract (cited)
From the mid- to late seventeenth century on women from the elite classes in Ireland started to write and exchange recipes, which they recorded in domestic manuscripts. Cultural imports to Ireland at this time, these manuscripts are excellent sources for the study of food, giving us a window into the early modern kitchen during a period of great culinary change. This paper will begin by briefly outlining the development of recipe writing as a genre in Ireland, considering issues such as chronology, authorship and content. The second part of the paper will focus more specifically on what these sources can tell us about material culture relating to cookery within high-status Irish homes of this period. By considering the objects mentioned, as well as the way in which they were described, the paper will discuss not simply what people owned, but also, what patterns of naming can tell us about these people's changing relationships with goods, and an emerging consumer identity.
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Contributors
Dennis Groenewegen
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February 2023
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